It is not very easy to give an objective vision of Iran, one of the oldest countries in the world. From the first glance it appears as a land with lots of contradictions. The country have been already for 30 years governed by strict Islamic regime and all Iranians we were talking to, cursed this regime and Iranian leaders under the ground. Yet, the people, living under strict rules, constant fear of the (moral) police, and no hope for better future, come out to be one of the most hospitable, friendly and helpful personalities, who we had great luck to experience on our journey.
Iran is not the most popular destination for mass tourism, thus any independent backpacker is a miracle for local people. When walking on the streets of Tabriz, many people with better English stopped us for a short conversation or simply welcomed us, asking if they can help us with something or just wished us nice staying in Iran. The ones whose English was not that good, greeted us with smiley "Salaam" or if they really wanted to caught our attention and say something in English, no matter what, then "I'm fine, thank you !" seamed the most suitable phrase for them to say.
Bunch of english students, who found common language with us.
The picture of Iranian streets is not THAT colorful...
A shopkeeper who was so pleased to have us as costumers
Bazaars in Iran are something remarkable. They hold thousand times more spirit in them than any of the sight seeings. Tabriz bazaar, being one of the oldest bazaars in middle-east, consists of 5 km2 of arched corridors with little shops on each side. All this atmosphere, smells of different spices and voices of people bargling, market workers with either empty or overloaded carriages making the way trough the people yelling "jalla, jalla !" ("make way !"), shifted us few centuries back in time.
Bread factory. Iran has different kinds of bread, this one was with little rocks in it that were removed after taking it out from the oven, leaving an interesting texture into the bread.
Queue waiting for the fresh bread.
Iranians are also very modest some of the times. For example, when we went to a cafe and asked whether they have tea, we were honestly answered : "yes, we have, but it's not good..."
We had already spent two nights in one musaferkhane (guesthouse), paying extra for shower, like in every guesthouse in Iran, so we decided to give up the room, go with our backpacks to Kandovan, Iranian Kappadokya, and see what will happen there.
Very nice things started to happen !
On our way to Kandovan, we got to know Amir and Sultan. Sultan was a construction worker and Amir was his direct boss. It was Friday - free day in Iran and so they decided to spend it somewhere out. As they got to know we are going to Kandovan, they joined with us. After little time we were all three invited to Amir's house in Tabriz to stay there as long as we wish. They also payed everything for us and did not accept any money offer from us.
As the "where we gonna sleep tonight"- question had been solved so early in the daytime, we could fully enjoy Kandovan, which is actually much more concentrate and lively than Kappadokya in Turkey.
Great days are always the greatest - Kadri got a present from two Teheranian girls who we got to know there. Guess what is the most appropriate present in Iran from one women to another....?!
...a scarf !
Later on we were welcomed by Amir's parents, lots of fruits (as Amir's oncle said: "One apple a day, keeps doctor away!") and delicious warm dinner. After 2 nights at Amir's place, Xavier decided to move on and catch his adventures near Azerbaijan border and because conditions were so perfect, Branko decided to catch little cold and fall sick for a little while. Amir moved us to his secret flat, where we could heal and gain back our full power.
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