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Thursday, November 4, 2010

Amritsar

Agra, Delhi and Jaipur should not be a "must" when traveling to India, but Amritsar should !!!

It was definitely one of the most spiritual experiences and highlights of our Indian trip. We were only sorry, that our flight back to Europe didn't depart from there. It would have been a perfect ending of our journey.

So why was it that we were so much fascinated about the city;
Somehow the atmosphere in the whole place is influenced by the spirituality radiating from the Golden Temple, which is the heart of Amritsar. Also it is truly amazing that we did not meet any beggar on the streets. Maybe it was because of the major population of Sikhs, who live in this region and whose values and living standard somewhat differ from those of the Hindus. Or maybe because Golden Temple provides everything for the local people, also for the poor.

It might seem like a little exaggeration for those who have been there before, but Golden Temple really seamed like Paradise on Earth.

It is said, that Sikhism is a mixture of islam and hinduism. Sikhs themselves don't approve such a simplification. However after getting to know this culture little bit and after experiencing the people's attitude in the Golden Temple, we somehow developed a great respect for this religion. All the Sikhs that we had chance to talk to, seamed very sophisticated and kind people. I guess, what creates attitude towards some foreign religion are not the myths and believes, but the people together with their deeds, who carry this religion in their hearts.














Amritsar street picture, like in anywhere in India, only little more cleaner and without beggars.














Another street picture.


So, what was so great that we experienced in the Temple area:
- calm meditating (live !) music from the very early morning till the late night.
- people smiling to each other, which on the background of everything makes you feel that you are part of something bigger.
- Everything is so clean and even shiny (this is also the way we imagine something that is considered "holy")
- Hundreds, if not even thousands of Sikh volunteers coming to the temple every day to clean, prepare food, serve food to other Sikhs or visitors, wash the dishes, renovate something (if necessary) or simply "guard the peace" of the temple area.
- Even in Golden Temple area people have to stand in a line and wait to get into the temple, but no pushing and pulling and fighting for being first. People respect their time of waiting.
- We were talking to one kitchen volunteer and he told us that the common kitchen is serving food 365 days a year, 24 hours a day. Absolutely everybody from any religion is welcome and the number of people filling their stomachs with the delicious food on an average day is around 50,000 !!!! On weekends and religious days the number can reach to double !!
And all the food is unlimited and for free !!!!
Isn't this amazing ?!













Entering to the temple. No discrimination ! Everybody, that means also men, have to wear a head cover before entering to the temple area.














Golden temple in the middle of the pond (with super clean water) and a guard.














Another guard on the other side of the pond.














































Little Sikh. Weapon in Sikhism is only meant for protecting the weaker and the poor. So it is an obligation for every true Sikh to carry a small dagger on the belt.




















A holy western tourist




















Masses




















People in the queue going into the temple. Since temple is small, but many people want to enter for a moment, they have to wait in the queue, in order to avoid overcrowds and keep the peaceful atmosphere inside the temple.




















Volunteer - the whole day giving spoons to people entering to the common kitchen. There is also a volunteer for plates and cups.














Volunteers - the whole day making chapaties for everybody














Volunteers - whole day chopping vegetables.














In the eating room. Everybody is equal - rich and poor, men and women are sitting side by side to share the common food.















Volunteers - the whole day taking dirty plates from people coming from the common kitchen.














Volunteers - the whole day washing the dishes.












Evening atmosphere in the temple area.


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We spent a few days in Amritsar. So we had lots of time to visit also other places, including one hindu temple. But after experiencing the spirituality in the Golden Temple, this Hindu temple seemed more like an amusement park. When you look at the pictures below, then you understand why...
































Kadri on the funny obstacle course of the Hindu temple.














Branko on the obstacle course.














God on the obstacle course


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Quite close to the Golden Temple is a park that is famous for its bloody history. In 1919, British Indian Army soldiers under the command of General Dyer, opened fire on an unarmed gathering of innocent Hindu, Sikh and Muslim men, women and children without any warning. This event has gone to history with the name of Jallianwala Bagh massacre.
Because of the park being fenced on all sides, people could not escape, and so the only way to hide themselves from the 10-15 minutes lasting firing was to jump into the nearby well. This, however did not save them, since over 100 dead bodies were taken out of the well afterwards...
The general number of people being killed in the massacre was 379, stated by British and roughly 1000, stated by Indian National Congress.














Park that has seen a lot....














Bullet holes in the wall.


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To be continued.....

Next, Atari border - the World's most unbelievable border.