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Thursday, October 29, 2009

Last stop in Turkey

Hitchhiking in turkey is so easy - does not matter if you are 1, 2, 3 people, even if it is two men and one woman. It did not take too much time after we were all three picked up from the place where Onder left us.

The longest ride was with the bus - for free of course.
















During our way to Dogubayazit we were two times stopped and controlled by military guys. Eastern Turkey is a problematic district, where turkish military tries to have control over some kurdish extremists. It seams however like a witch circle, as kurdish children have to grow up being constantly under army control, which may thus rise more and more hate in them towards the officials.

When we hitchhiked a turkish car, the driver said: Kurdisatan - problem !
When we hitchhiked a kurdish car, the driver said: Turkiye - problem !

Anyway, turkish soldiers are still very nice and wished us good trip after getting to know that we are tourists.




























Few km-s from Dogubayazit is Ishak Pasha Palace at the foot of Mount Ararat. To this place we were heading for the night with the hope to get a cheap room. Eventually we made a good deal in Murat camping and got a nice room for 2 euros all together for 3 of us.

Murat camping was at the same time organizing expedition to Mount Ararat for a group of mountaineers . Surprisingly we were told that it was a group of estonians !
Later we found out an interestig fact -
-On 9 October 1829, the first person ever to reach the peak of the legendary Mount Ararat was Johann Jakob Friedrich Wilhelm Parrot (1792 – 1841), Tartu University physics professor and later rector.
So it was 180 anniversary of conquering the Ararat.....

Also when having dinner in one kurdish restaurant down in Dogubayazit, we got discount, just because Branko could speak few kurdish words. They were all so happy that a foreigner knows some words in kurdish...
Gelec spas !














Our last Turkish evening went by in front of our room, having a beautiful view down to the city, finishing Greek Ouzo, that we carried all he way from Greece to Turkey and cracking hazelnuts, that was given to us by one driver in Kapadokya.















Next day big and unknown Iran was waiting for us !

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Kars environmental festival


It is probably going to be our longest post so far, because our stay in Kars was one of the most active ones.

We were very much looking forward to reach to Kars, because our host Önder was organizing a environmental festival there and also invited us to participate.






















(our host Önder)


First of all - NE Turkey is one of the places that every person visiting Turkey should see. It has a very special atmosphere. It kind of reminds Mongolia, with its peacefulness, spacious step land and horses together with other domestic animals enjoying the freedom from dawn till dust near little villages.




























Our base during the festival was a small Kuyucuk village, with a beautiful lake nearby and snow-peaked Armenian mountains on the backround. It is a home for thousands of water birds. Kars and Igdir region is actually very important place for ornithologists, because of being one of the main bird migration paths. Thus, several bird watching and ringing stations have been set up there.















(a house in Kuyucuk village)

















(bird ringing station)


The festival consisted of day-trips to most beautiful places and interesting sightseeings in Kars-Igdir region and spending great time with jolly turkish people and Xavier - a french traveler with whom we joined our road for a while later on.

First day of the festival was a lake day - opening at the Kuyucuk lake...



















































...and enjoying the evening sunshine at the Cildir lake.




























(Önder and his merry men and women)

At evening we went for another visit to the bird watching station near the Kuyucuk lake and spent there an hour or two in a more unofficial atmosphere. Kars region with the altitude of (+/-) 1750m has very cold nights at this time of the year, but at least they always have a full moon which makes the walk over the fields in the night more comfortable.

When arriving back to the base, we found somebody there waiting for us. He was confused, tired and hungry and thus not very happy that he had to wait for us such a long time outside in the cold, but eventually after having one of the best and most expensive turkish cheese for dinner, calmed him down and sweet dreams were quickly to come. It was a small Caucasian shepard puppy that somehow had found the way to us. We named him KOER ("dog" in estonian language). Afterwards, as we got to know from Önder, Koer was adopted by a rich Istanbul family and still carries the same name :-)























Second day took us to Igdir region.
First, nice morning walk in the place which reminded a mixture of moonland and paradise garden, inhabited with lots of different birds.






































Having lunch near vulture restaurant.
















On the picture there is something that probably used to be a wolf....

Vulture restaurant is a large semi-desert area, where local environmentalists bring animals, that have found their end on the roads or other ways, to make it easier for vultures to continue the natural food chain. Nothing is to be wasted.


The most intensive moments were under Mount Ararat. It was a big baggage of mixed emotions such as excitement, amazement and distraction, when sun was setting, full moon was rising, road full of sheep on their way home, mother donkey reuniting with her little one and bus driver giving constant signal of being impatient to leave.























































Evening went quickly by with turkish live pop-rock music and dancing.
It was a great cultural evening for us....too bad that the tiredness got victory over us, before the evening ended.































Third and the last day gave us chance to visit Ani ruins, just on the border with Armenia.

Ani was one of the ancient capitals of Armenia from 961 to 1045. The city of Ani was considered an impregnable fortress due to its natural protective cliffs on three sides and strong massive walls on the fourth side. It was a thriving community and acquired fame as being a Christian metropolis in Asia abounding with prestigious monuments.













(canyon separating present Turkey and Armenia)















(remains of one of the church and walls on the backround)


The relationships between Turkey and Armenia have not been very friendly due to some historical events and so far there was no crossing border between those countries. However, a week of two after our visit to the Ani ruins and to the crack between the countries, we heard from news that peace negotiations between Turkey and Armenia were finally successful and further cooperation can be expected.


That evening was especially enjoyable for merry men, as they went to Hamam - turkish bath. Turkish bath is not like estonian sauna, so Kadri had to stay home.



Saying good bye is always sad, but new road brings new adventures and new friends to share those adventures with. We joined our road with Xavier for a while and headed towards Iran together.


















Big Thanks to Önder for this beautiful time in Kars !

Monday, October 19, 2009

Way to Kars

Another truck driver who took good care of us.
After having no breakfast, we had a delicious brunch with him.





























Way through magical Kurdistan:







































Another food stop, where more and more people were joining us.

Erzincan

It was already dark when we reached to Erzincan. We were walking on the direction city center.
We did not even hitchhike, but suddenly a car stopped next to us. Behind the steering wheel was a rich-looking guy, asking us where are we going.

After 15 minutes we were already sitting in one of the most luxurious cafes of the city - "Divane", and drinking tea/coffe with our new friend Hassan and the owner of the cafe.
Hassan was a funny guy, who seamed to have some kind of "little brother/big brother" relationships with Trabzon people....

















After delicious dinner, Hassan called to our CS host Ahmet to pick us up.
In Turkey everything is so easy and relaxed - basically, you only have to come to a new place, take a look around you and you will notice many people who are willing to help you anyhow they can and will do everything for you, so that you only have to sit back and enjoy the flow. And it does not even matter that they can not speak english and we speak very poor turkish....true hospitality does not need many words.

Relaxing evening with our host Ahmet:

















Erzincan is located on a flatland enclosed by mountains. Quite early next morning, when Ahmet went to work, we decided to spend all day outside.
The air was clean and visibility was perfect.













By having a walk in the city center, we accidentally pumped into the owner of "Divane" again. We were invited to breakfast in "Divane" and after a little while also Hassan joined us.

The second half of the day we were enjoying the nice weather outside the city, at Girlevik waterfalls, created on Çağlayan Stream - one of the source streams of the Euphrates river.
The power and beauty of the nature is so liberating and clears the mind.
These are very precious and refreshing highlight moments of our journey to be in the nature. Beacause most of our journey goes by by sitting in the trucks or chatting and drinking tea with people on the streets.




































































Coming back to the city was like a waking up from a pleasant dream.
Oh, busy and hectic city life !
But in Turkey positive emotions come to you wherever you are - in the nature or in the city.
Actually life in Turkey as being a tourist is all inclusive. When going to shop, for example, to buy a bread, you will be given bread for free (just because you are a tourist) and cup of tea as an extra bonus !

Turkish people are simply happy to be able to help travellers, because in their beliefs all the guests are sent by the God. When religion is in heart and not in mind, then everybody will benifit from it.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Winter wonderland

Green hills covered with tea bushes along the cost changed suddenly to snowy mountains and mist in between them.

This is how northern Turkey looked like on 29. September, 2009






















































































But we were safe - turkish truck drivers were looking after us and we reached happily to Erzincan with the darkness.